by Byron Jonas
Surfing is not like learning to ride a bicycle or drive a car. It is a combination of talent, practice and appreciation of the power of the waves, and also a science involving different components that need to be just right. Let's take a look at what it takes to be a good surfer.
The first thing to know is that it needs above average swimming skills and a personality that enjoys being in the water. Before riding the waves, the surfer has to paddle out to sea, and has to know exactly how far out to go. Too near shore is no good, and going too far out will cause a lot of pain if the legrope breaks and it becomes necessary to swim back.
The second thing to remember is that this is a sport and needs a lot of physical exertion and balance. This means having a fit and strong body. It also means a heck of a lot of practice, so anyone who wants to be good at surfing (if not a pro) has to really love riding the waves. Otherwise, it'll be too much of an effort.
There are also the scientific aspects to be studied and understood. The design for the surfboard is probably the most important of these elements, since it has to match the personal style and physique of the surfer. Depending on preferences, a surfboard needs to be a shortboard or longboard and can be made from different types of materials such as foam, epoxy and fiberglass. Everything from the length and width and float to the nose, tail and fins can and is usually customized.
Surfers are also expected to be able to study weather reports and patterns, and know a lot about the tides and waves. It's not like being an oceanographer, but at the very least it helps to know when the waves are coming and how big they're going to be. A deeper look into the dynamics of waves and how they work helps a lot.
There are many more things to be learned (especially for beginners) that can make it easier, such as paddling techniques and standing up on the board. There are some very important things that all surfers should know about, including safety tips such as staying in a group. It is also important to know how to stay clear of sharks.
Knowing how to find the best surfing spots is also something that can be learned over time. For example, the most well known spots are usually good for expert surfers but it may be a bit scary for those new to it. A few surfing lessons should be enough to get people started. Otherwise, just hang out and learn from what others are doing.
The first thing to know is that it needs above average swimming skills and a personality that enjoys being in the water. Before riding the waves, the surfer has to paddle out to sea, and has to know exactly how far out to go. Too near shore is no good, and going too far out will cause a lot of pain if the legrope breaks and it becomes necessary to swim back.
The second thing to remember is that this is a sport and needs a lot of physical exertion and balance. This means having a fit and strong body. It also means a heck of a lot of practice, so anyone who wants to be good at surfing (if not a pro) has to really love riding the waves. Otherwise, it'll be too much of an effort.
There are also the scientific aspects to be studied and understood. The design for the surfboard is probably the most important of these elements, since it has to match the personal style and physique of the surfer. Depending on preferences, a surfboard needs to be a shortboard or longboard and can be made from different types of materials such as foam, epoxy and fiberglass. Everything from the length and width and float to the nose, tail and fins can and is usually customized.
Surfers are also expected to be able to study weather reports and patterns, and know a lot about the tides and waves. It's not like being an oceanographer, but at the very least it helps to know when the waves are coming and how big they're going to be. A deeper look into the dynamics of waves and how they work helps a lot.
There are many more things to be learned (especially for beginners) that can make it easier, such as paddling techniques and standing up on the board. There are some very important things that all surfers should know about, including safety tips such as staying in a group. It is also important to know how to stay clear of sharks.
Knowing how to find the best surfing spots is also something that can be learned over time. For example, the most well known spots are usually good for expert surfers but it may be a bit scary for those new to it. A few surfing lessons should be enough to get people started. Otherwise, just hang out and learn from what others are doing.
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